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Copyright 2006 All Rights Reserved to Connecticut Audubon Society

CT Audubon Society EcoTravel

Monhegan Island, Maine

October 6-9, 2006

Trip Report

by Joe Bear, Tour Leader

Summary:

The good news was that the weather was absolutely perfect, the bad (well…, sort of) news was that the weather was absolutely perfect.  After a front passed through on our way to Monhegan on Fri, the winds steadily shifted from NNW to SSW to S which didn’t bode well for large movements of passerines or Western vagrants, but did offer us some of the best early October weather in a 3-day stretch that locals can ever recall.  We tallied a modest 73 species (incl 6 heard-only and a Red-tailed Hawk in route to New Harbor), but enjoyed 3 sun-filled days, refreshingly cool evenings, beautiful sunsets (and moonrises!), scenic vistas along the island’s 160’ bluffs, and arguably the best food around prepared by the chef at The Island Inn, our cozy place of stay for 3 nights.

Day 1:  

After a 7am pickup in Westbrook, we headed North on 395 and picked up Jill en route off exit 82.  With time on our side, we decided to make a “fast” food stop for lunch in Maine at The Taste of Maine Restaurant- anything but fast, we quickly learned.  Our ferry from New Harbor left promptly at 2pm- in the harbor we encountered a Black Guillemot (or “White” Guillemot as some called it) in basic plumage.  Our 1 hour ride to Monhegan was a smooth one with nothing unusual to speak of on the way across.  As we neared the island, however, a group of 20+ Northern Gannets (sitting on the water) took flight as our boat approached them giving us all good views of the immature–adult plumages.  Perhaps even more exciting for most were the 2 adult Bald Eagles sitting on a small island off Monhegan harbor.  After checking in with Krista at the Island Inn and receiving our room keys, we walked over to the Pierce Cottage to get settled in.  Just outside the cottage, in a perennial bed, we had “crippling” views of both Tennessee and Nashville Warbler- a real treat, especially as we were still carrying our bags.  While waiting for everyone to come down from their rooms, a Lincoln’s Sparrow responded to a quick “pish” and popped up on top of a shrub bordering The Meadow.  Our dinner reservation was at 6:30pm, and as we were being seated we were “interrupted” by a truly remarkable site- the sun had just set in the West and the skies were a red “sailor’s delight”, and to our East over the Lighthouse a full moon was rising.  Some took pictures while others just took in the moment, and then we sat back down to enjoy a 5-star Welcome Dinner.

Day 2:

Saturday started off quite cool with winds out of the NNW; there was some evidence of migrants blown out over the water coming onto Monhegan to land, but not big numbers.  By far the most numerous warblers were Yellow-rumped and Palm Warblers, just about everywhere.  A few Grackles flew into a tall Spruce, and with them was one Rusty Blackbird.  We made it back to breakfast by 9:15am, and what a breakfast it was (and continued to be).  The buffet included a Lobster egg soufflé that was out of this world, accompanied by Blueberries in various forms- pancakes, muffins, scones, and yogurt.  After breakfast, we did some more birding along the dirt road from the Ice Pond to Lobster Cove and encountered several Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers leaving their trademark signature on the many Apple trees in the village.  The two Bald Eagles we saw on our way to the island were still around and this time soaring over Lobster Cove.  Peregrine Falcons and Merlins were plentiful, as were Common Ravens.   After lunch (sandwiches on the porch of the Island Inn), we hiked the Whitehead trail to Whitehead on the East side of the island- a 160’ rocky outcrop affording us stunning views of the rugged coastline of Monhegan, and the open waters of the Atlantic Ocean.  Below us on the rocks we had excellent views of Great Cormorant- both a “white-bellied” immature bird as well as an adult.  On our way back to town, we ran into a flock of Chipping Sparrows in the field behind the lighthouse- no Clay-colored with them.  Dinner was at The Island Inn again- no arm-twisting there.

Day 3:

The winds had begun to shift out of the South during the night, and Sunday morning was noticeably warmer than the previous morning.  The two tall Spruces right outside The Island Inn were among the first trees to be lit by the morning sun, and hence were active with birds.  Outside of a late Yellow Warbler, the rest were more Yellow-rumps and Palms, joined by both Ruby-crowned and Golden-crowned Kinglets.  Behind the Schoolhouse, we walked a narrow trail that brought us to an opening near the water where we had a Rose-breasted Grosbeak the day before; this day we had a very obliging immature Black-billed Cuckoo who gave everyone unusually long looks.  The Ice Pond hosted a drake Wood Duck.  After another satisfying breakfast, we ambled down to Lobster Cove to take in the scenery and warmth of the sun.  It’s no wonder why famous artists such as Jamie Wyeth and Rockwell Kent built homes here.  We sat and relaxed while watching a Peregrine harass an immature Northern Harrier out over the water.  Back in town, we stopped at Tom Martin’s feeders where a couple of White-crowned Sparrows were present.  Tom’s feeder set-up has been limited by construction in the area.  Remarkably absent were any western birds such as Clay-colored Sparrow, Lark Sparrow, or Dickcissel.  We all gathered at The Barnacle for a light lunch, despite the rave reviews of Hot Fat (there was just something about the name that didn’t turn people on).  After lunch we hiked the Cathedral Woods trail where evidence of fairies kept us on the lookout.  Much of this trail meanders through Red Spruce forest and in it we heard the calls of Brown Creeper.  We cut across Long Swamp trail where we flushed a Cooper’s Hawk, and then came across the remains of his/her lunch.  Finally Whitehead trail took us back into town as we “climbed down” the road beside the lighthouse.  With a couple of afternoon hours still left and temps near 70F, we made the most of this beautiful day and continued our walk back south to Burnthead where we passed through a meadow dotted with the most incredible red-berried tall shrubs (I must find out its name).  Burnthead, at 140’, offered more scenic vistas of the rugged coastline and the ocean, while a couple of Merlins whizzed by.  Feeling like we needed to work off some of that Lobster soufflé or Blueberry Pie, most of us walked back up to the lighthouse just in time to catch the sun set into the horizon.  Dinner was at the Island Inn one more time where some had Blueberry Soup for a starter, and others for dessert.

Day 4:  

Winds were steady out of the South and the couple of hours of early morning birding yielded nothing new, except for a brief glimpse of a Hermit Thrush near the Ice Pond.   After breakfast, we checked out and boarded our ferry which departed at 10:15am.  We made good time on our drive back to CT and after a stop for a late lunch we arrived in Westbrook at 6pm.