Galapagos

Andrew Griswold, Director of EcoTravel
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Essex 06426
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YA GOTTA GO TO THE GALAPAGOS

by Kathleen Mangan, Freelance Writer for Connecticut Audubon

Birding in the Galapagos is like no where else on the planet -- the wildlife there has no fear of humans, allowing you to get up close and personal. You won't need your binoculars, a spotting scope or a zoom lens for your camera. You can be eyeball to eyeball with boobies, penguins, sea lions and iguanas.

As guide Milan Bull says, "you don't take photographs in the Galapagos, you take close-up portraits." The low scrubby vegetation on most of the islands allows you to find wildlife easily right out in the open.

The birds there are not only rare, they're quirky. Half of the 58 species are found only in the Galapagos, and some are found on just one island.

The bright blue webbed feet on the blue-footed boobies prove that Nature has a sense of humor. Not to be outdone, the male frigatebird has a bright red pouch under his chin which he inflates to attract a mate. Frigatebirds eat fish but don't have the oil in their feathers to land on the water, so they harass the boobies until they drop their fish which the frigatebirds often catch mid-air.

The waved albatross is so big and heavy that to take off, they stand on the edge of a cliff with their wings out and wait for a gust of wind to jump into. The greater flamingos are the pinkest in the world due to the shrimp they eat.

The 13 small Darwin's finches each have a different shaped beak adapted to what they eat. The development of their beaks as tools helped Darwin solidify his theory of evolution.

You'll get a chance not only to see thousands of Galapagos penguins, but to swim with them too. Although they are awkward on land, they are graceful in the water, performing high-speed acrobatic loops and leaving bubble trails behind.

The snorkeling is amazing -- schools of multi-colored fish, large sea turtles, manta rays, puffer fish and enormous colorful starfish. There are sharks in the waters, but guides say they have enough to eat so they don't bother humans. I was thankful I didn't run into a hammerhead.

Sea lions covered the beaches basking lazily in the sun, while spiked marine iguanas and red-and-blue Sally Lightfoot crabs littered the black lava rocks above the beach. Many species here are primitive sun-worshipers.

Watching a primordial giant Galapagos tortoise slowly extend its head from its thick shell to grab a plant to eat reminded me that there was a lot of history on the earth before man entered the scene.

INTO THE AMAZON

The extension to La Selva Jungle Lodge in the Amazon is an absolute must -- it is one of the most biodiverse spots in the entire world, boasting over 550 species of birds within two square kilometers. Brilliant colors flash everywhere from exotic birds, flowers, butterflies and caterpillars.

You'll stay in traditional huts, and explore by hiking and canoeing. Hundreds of parrots hang out at the parrot lick in the morning, and the viewing platform enables you to see birds high in the canopy. Monkeys swing through the trees for extra entertainment. You are lulled to sleep by the sounds of the birds and animals echoing from the jungle.

I missed the harpy eagle that appeared right near the lodge one morning, but I did see a rare white hawk, four species of monkeys including a tiny pygmy marmoset, and caiman eyes by night. And of course, I added a host of birds to my life list.

The colors of the Amazonian birds are matched only by the colors of the weavings made by natives and sold at Otavallo, the largest Indian market in all of South America. The outdoor market high in the Andes with locals in traditional dress makes for more great photo opportunities. Bring lots of film!

The dates for the Connecticut Audubon Galapagos Tour are October 20 - 30, 2003 (a pre-trip extension to Machu Picchu or the Amazon is available). For more information and on this and other tours offered by Connecticut Audubon, call 1-800-996-8747.

Founded in 1898, Connecticut Audubon Society is an independent, statewide, non-profit organization dedicated to providing excellence in environmental education, encouraging the conservation of the state's natural resources and advocating for enlightened leadership on ecological matters. Visit the Connecticut Audubon web site for membership and more information: www.ctaudubon.org or call 800-996-8747.